Audley End House is a largely early 17th-century country house outside Saffron Walden, Essex, England. It is a prodigy house, known as one of the finest Jacobean houses in England.

Audley End is now one-third of its original size, but is still large, with much to enjoy in its architectural features and varied collections. The house shares some similarities with Hatfield House, except that it is stone-clad as opposed to brick.[1] It is currently in the stewardship of English Heritage but long remained the family seat of the Barons Braybrooke, heirs to the estate of whom retain a portion of the contents of the house, the estate, and the right to repurchase as an incorporeal hereditament.[2] Audley End railway station is named after the house.

Audley End was the site of Walden Abbey, a Benedictine monastery that was dissolved and granted to the Lord Chancellor Sir Thomas Audley in 1538 by Henry VIII. The abbey was converted to a domestic house for him with the conversion of the church which had three floors inserted into the nave, the rest of the church itself being demolished. In addition a great hall was constructed on the site of the abbott's lodging, the same position occupied by the later Jacobean great hall.[

64. SAFFRON WALDEN. (B.b.)
(O.S. 6 in. (a)iii. S.W. (b)ix. N.W. (c)ix. N.E. (d)ix. S.W.)

Saffron Walden is a parish and market town 11 m. N. by E. of Bishop's Stortford. The first settlement on the site might have been enclosed by the Repell ditches, but the town in the 11th and 12th centuries mainly occupied the ridge on which the Church and Castle now stand. The stalls of the mediæval market-place are probably represented by the narrow streets and blocks of buildings S. of King Street, and the later mediæval town extended round that area. The Parish Church is an ecclesiastical monument of great importance, and amongst the secular buildings the 12th-century Castle, the Jacobean mansion, Audley End, the early 17th-century almshouses near it, and the early 16th-century house, St. Aylotts, are all of great interest. In the town are numerous examples of 15th-century and later town-houses, which well illustrate the development of that type of building, and at Sewers End is a house (122) containing interesting painted wall-decorations.

Roman (See No. (157), p. 260).

Ecclesiastical
b (1). Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin stands at the N.W. corner of the town. The walls are of flint rubble with dressings of limestone and clunch; the roofs are covered with lead. The earliest work in the church is of fairly late 13th-century date, and consists of the chancel-arcades, the arches opening into the chapels from the aisles, and a crypt or vaulted chamber, which is partly under the S. aisle, and partly under the S. porch. The position of the crypt indicates the existence, in the 13th century, of a S. aisle narrower than the present aisle, and much too narrow for the 13th-century arch to the chapel. The width of the former aisle suggests that the arch originally opened into a transept on the site of the two E. bays of the present aisle; the spacing of the E. bays of the S. wall further confirms this suggestion, and it is probable that the foundations and lower part of the wall of the E. bays are of the 13th century, and represent the S. wall of the former S. transept. In the N. aisle the spacing of the N. wall and the width of the arch opening into the N. chapel suggest a similar arrangement to that on the S., and the spacing is consistent with the existence of a central tower. It is possible, therefore, that the 13th-century church was of cruciform plan and consisted of a chancel with N. and S. chapels, a central tower, or at least a crossing, N. and S. transepts, nave, N. and S. aisles and a S. porch. About the middle of the 15th century, or somewhat earlier, a general rebuilding of the whole church was begun. The Chancel was built first, with a Charnel or bone-hole below it; the clearstorey of the chancel followed, and in the third quarter of the 15th century the Nave was rebuilt, and the West Tower added, probably outside the W. end of the older nave; the new nave was then joined to the tower, and, at the same time, the North and South Aisles were rebuilt, and the South Porch was added. Early in the 16th century the clearstorey of the nave was built, the chancel-arch raised and the turrets flanking it were added; the North and South Chapels were much altered, if not rebuilt, c. 1526. The church was restored in 1792–3, and the spire was added in 1831. Restorations also took place in 1859–60 and 1876; the N. chapel was restored in 1904.

The church is one of the largest and finest in the county. Among the fittings, the 14th-century carvings in the N. aisle, and the Audley tomb of 1544, are noteworthy.

Architectural Description
The Chancel (44½ ft. by 24 ft.) has a modern E. window. In the N. wall is a mid 15th-century window of three cinquefoiled lights and tracery in a four-centred head; the external jambs, and head and the rear arch are moulded; further W. is an arcade of two bays, of late 13th-century date; the two-centred arches are of two moulded orders resting on a pier quatrefoil on plan, and responds with attached half-piers, all with moulded capitals and bases; the base of the pier seems to have been re-cut in the 15th century. In the S. wall is a window and an arcade of two bays similar to those on the N., but the base of the pier is original. On each wall, above the arcades, is a mid 15th-century string-course, set with small shields painted in the 18th century. The mid 15th-century clearstorey has six windows in both the N. and S. walls, each of three trefoiled and transomed lights with tracery in a four-centred head, and a moulded external label; the external jambs and head are moulded. The two-centred chancel-arch (see Plate, p. 229) is of two moulded orders with elaborate cusped and panelled spandrels on the W. face; the outer order is continued down the responds; the inner order rests on attached semi-circular shafts with moulded bases, and capitals set with small carved flowers; the lower part of the responds is of the third quarter of the 15th century, but the upper part, with the arch, is of early 16th-century date.

The Charnel or bone-hole, now called the Howard Vault, below the E. end of the chancel, is of mid 15th-century date. It has two small rectangular windows in the E. wall, and one in the N. wall; it is now inaccessible.

The North Chapel (28 ft. by 24 ft.) has buttresses and panelled pinnacles and an embattled parapet of the 16th-century, the moulded string-course of the parapet is enriched with small carved bosses such as a phœnix, cat, censing angels, and various grotesques. In the E. wall is a modern window, and below it a stone inscribed 1526. In the N. wall are two modern windows, and under the western is an early 16th-century doorway with moulded jambs and two-centred arch with a moulded label. In the W. wall is a late 13th-century arch, similar in character and detail to those of the arcades of the chancel; the wall appears to have been cut back and the capitals have been partly re-cut, probably in the 15th century.

The South Chapel (24½ ft. by 27½ ft.) has, in the E. wall, a window of 1792. In the S. wall there are two modern windows, and below the western is a doorway similar to that in the N. chapel but with a modern four-centred arch. In the W. wall is an arch similar to that in the N. chapel, except that the capitals have not been re-cut, although the arch has been narrowed, and the N. respond and segment of the arch were re-set early in the 16th century. Saffron Walden, the Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin.

The Nave (113 ft. by 23 ft.) has 15th-century N. and S. arcades (see Plates, pp. 229–231) each of seven bays with moulded two-centred arches springing from moulded and shafted piers and E. responds; the shafts have moulded capitals and bases; the spandrels of the arcade have cusped panelling, and bosses carved with the Bourchier knot, molets, Katherine wheels, a wallet and staff, and a shield with three scallops; the westernmost arch in each arcade butts against the buttress of the W. tower; above the arches is a moulded cornice enriched with carved bosses; in each wall, E. of the E. respond, is a small doorway with moulded jambs and four-centred arch with carved spandrels; it opens into a stair-turret, which was added early in the 16th century, carried up to the roof and finished with an octagonal and crocketed stone cupola enriched with scale-ornament. At the level of the former rood-loft is a blocked doorway, and lower down are traces of the existence of a wooden cove, said to have been part of the Audley End pew. The early 16th-century clearstorey has an embattled parapet and a moulded cornice, enriched with bosses, carved with various designs, including the Bourchier knot. In both the N. and S. walls are thirteen windows, coupled in each bay except the westernmost, and all of three cinquefoiled transomed lights with tracery under a four-centred head, each pair under a main four-centred arch with cusped and pierced spandrels; the lower range of lights is blind; between the bays are wall-shafts continued up from the piers of the arcade and finished with moulded capitals. At the W. end of the N. clearstorey is a blocked window, formerly of three lights under a four-centred head, which may indicate the existence of a 15th-century clearstorey, or that it was begun, but not finished.

The North Aisle (24 ft. wide) is of eight bays, of late 15th-century date; the three eastern, corresponding to the two eastern of the nave-arcade, formed a chapel. The N. wall of the three eastern bays has an embattled parapet with a moulded string-course carved with grotesques, including a saddled beast, wild-man, wyvern, woman with a cat in her lap, chained monkey, rabbit and goat; above and below the windows the wall is faced with flint and stone chequer-work, much restored; the panelled and splayed buttresses have crocketed pinnacles. The five western bays correspond to those of the nave-arcade, and have an embattled parapet and plain buttresses with pinnacles. In the N. wall are eight windows of late 15th-century date, much restored, and each of four cinquefoiled lights with tracery in a two-centred head; the three eastern windows have moulded internal and external reveals and square external heads with traceried spandrels, much restored; the remaining windows have moulded labels with grotesque stops, and no tracery in the spandrels. Below the three eastern windows, inside, are shallow niches (see Fittings), and between the same windows are clustered wall-shafts with moulded bases and foliated capitals, surmounted by niches, (see Fittings); between the fourth and fifth windows, and again between the sixth and seventh, and also in the N.W. angle, are circular wall-shafts with moulded bases and capitals. Below the sixth window is the 15th-century N. doorway with moulded jambs and two-centred arch under a square head with traceried spandrels; the outer member of the jambs has embattled capitals supporting the moulded label; the internal splays are moulded, and the spandrels of the rear arch have quatrefoil panels with blank shields. In the W. wall is a 15th-century window, much restored, of five cinquefoiled lights with tracery in a two-centred head.

The South Aisle (25 ft. wide) has a similar arrangement of bays to that of the N. aisle. The three eastern bays formed a chapel. In the S. wall are eight windows of late 15th-century date, the three eastern are of similar design to those in the N. aisle, but have sunk, trefoiled spandrels outside, and are almost completely restored; the remaining windows, except the sixth, are uniform with the corresponding windows in the N. aisle; the sixth window is of three cinquefoiled lights with tracery in a four-centred head, and opens into the upper storey of the S. porch. Below the sixth window is the S. doorway of early 14th-century work, re-set in a thickening of the wall; the jambs and two-centred arch are of three moulded orders; the moulded internal splays and the panelled rear arch are of the 15th century. Further W. is a doorway to the porch staircase, with moulded jambs and four-centred arch. Between the third and fourth windows is a heavy wall-shaft with rounded capital and base set against a nib of masonry, and, opposite to it, against the second pier of the nave arcade, is a similar shaft; the bays of the western part of the wall are divided, except between the fifth and sixth bays, by slender wall-shafts. In the W. wall is a window uniform with that in the W. wall of the N. aisle.

The West Tower (15 ft. square) is of four stages with an embattled parapet and stone spire; it was built in the third quarter of the 15th century, but the fourth stage was rebuilt and the spire added in 1831; at the angles are octagonal turrets, partly masked by buttresses; the two eastern contained staircases, but that on the S.E. has been blocked or destroyed. The two-centred tower-arch is of three moulded orders, the two outer orders are continuous and the innermost order rests on round attached shafts with moulded capitals and bases; flanking the arch are doorways to the two staircases, with moulded jambs and four-centred arches with foliated spandrels. The much restored W. doorway has moulded jambs and a four-centred arch under a square head with panelled spandrels; the internal splays and rear arch are moulded; the W. window, of three cinquefoiled lights, is almost entirely modern. In the angles of the ground stage are vaulting shafts with moulded, capitals and bases, and the moulded springers and wall-ribs of a vault which was never completed or has been destroyed. The third stage has a modern window in each wall. The bell-chamber is entirely modern.

The North Porch, of c. 1500, has pinnacles at the angles and a parapet string-course enriched with carvings; the stone vault has moulded diagonal, intermediate, ridge and wall-ribs, and springs from vaulting shafts in the angles with moulded bases and capitals; the bosses are carved with foliage, and one boss with the half-figure of an angel. The four-centred outer archway is moulded and has a square moulded outer order and a moulded label resting on small attached shafts with moulded capitals and bases, all much restored; above the archway is an embattled string-course. The E. and W. walls have each a window of two uncusped lights under a three centred head, all much restored. Against the S. wall is a moulded four-centred archway, built against, and partly covering the N. doorway.

The South Porch with the Porch-chamber projects from the S. aisle, and is of late 15th-century date. The parapet is embattled and the buttresses are finished with octagonal sham turrets. The porch has a panelled and fan-vaulted roof of two bays, much restored, and with two large foliated bosses; the vaulting rests on shafts with moulded capitals and bases. The moulded and two-centred outer archway has a square head with traceried spandrels, and the responds have attached shafts with moulded capitals and bases. The E. and W. walls have each two windows, much restored, and all of two uncusped lights in a two-centred head; the reveals are moulded and the moulded labels are apparently 14th-century work, re-set. The porch-chamber has, in the S. wall, a much restored window of four cinquefoiled lights with tracery in a four-centred head; the reveals are moulded. The E. and W. walls have each two windows of two plain lights under a square head, which is almost entirely modern.

The Crypt (16½ ft. square) is partly below the S. porch and partly below the S. aisle. It is divided into two bays from N. to S., and has a late 13th-century stone vault with chamfered diagonal and wall-ribs springing from semi-octagonal shafts with chamfered plinths. In the N.W. angle are traces of a circular staircase. In the E. wall is one window, and in the W. wall two windows or air-shafts, all now blocked and much altered. In the S. wall is the modern doorway.

The Roof of the chancel is of six bays and of late 15th-century date. It is low-pitched and has moulded main timbers with foliated bosses at their intersections; the boss over the altar is carved with a chalice and wafer; the tie-beams have curved braces with traceried spandrels, and the wall-brackets have carved figures of the apostles, etc. The early 16th-century roof of the N. chapel is of four bays with moulded main timbers, and brackets carved with figures of saints; the coved cornice has carved figures of angels with spread wings. The early 16th-century roof of the nave is of seven bays and a quarter, the main timbers are moulded and the two and a quarter bays at the E. end are more richly ornamented than the rest; the wall-plates are carved alternately with badges, including a pomegranate, fleur de lis, crowned rose and portcullis, and figures of angels; the intersections of the main timbers have bosses carved with foliage, the Stafford knot, double-headed eagle, a molet, etc.; the curved braces to the tiebeams and wall-plates have traceried spandrels. The roofs of the N. and S. aisles are similar to each other, and appear to be of the 16th century, but were possibly altered in the 17th century; the tie-beams have crude tracery above them, and long curved brackets with similar tracery in the spandrels; at the feet of the intermediate principals are ogee brackets of Renaissance character; the roof of the S. aisle has grotesque carved bosses with shields bearing a star and crescent, a monogram and, apparently, the initials A R. The late 15th-century roof of the porch-chamber has moulded main timbers and cambered principals.

Fittings—Brasses and Indents. Brasses: In N. chapel—on W. wall, (1) to Thomas Turner the elder, mercer, 1610, and Joan his wife, 1619, plate with ornamental border. In N. aisle—on N. wall, (2) of woman, c. 1490; (3) and (4) of two women in fur-trimmed gowns and butterfly head-dresses, c. 1480; (5) and (6) of civilian and his wife, c. 1510; (7) of civilian, early 16th-century; (8) of woman, c. 1530, with flat cap and sash girdle, local type; (9) of civilian, c. 1530, with furred gown (see Indent 12); (10) of priest, c. 1430, in mass vestments, above head device of pelican, modern copy of lost original device (see Indent 8). Indents: In N. chapel—(1) of figure and marginal inscription, 15th-century; (2) of civilian and his wife, woman's figure with high-crowned hat, inscription plate, three other plates and marginal inscription, c. 1580; (3) of inscription plate. In S. chapel—(4) of man and two wives, inscription plate, five scrolls and small figure of saint; (6) of civilian and his wife, and two inscription plates; (7) of civilian, under canopy, and standing on bracket, two shields and marginal inscription; (8) of brass (10) with two shields and inscription; plate; (9) of figure and inscription plate, fragment only; (10) part of floriated cross with marginal letters .... OHAN: DE: SAY .... DV ....L.. LALME, early 14th-century, much defaced. (11) of inscription plate. In N. aisle—(12) of man and four lozenges (see Brass 9); (13) of civilian and inscription plate, late 16th or early 17th-century; (14) of man and his wife and two plates, late 15th or early 16th-century; (15) of man and his wife, early 16th-century.

In S. aisle—at W. end (16) of inscription plate, half slab only; (17) of inscription plate; (18) of three men and one woman, c. 1500, half slab only; (19) of man and his wife and inscription plate; (20) of man and his two wives, inscription plate and two plates; (21) of inscription plate. In S. porch—fixed in E. wall (22) of man and his three wives, plate with figures, probably of the Virgin and Child, scrolls, inscription plate and four shields. Covering window of crypt— (23) of figures, four scrolls and shield. Chests:

In N. aisle—plain, with iron bands and lock-plates, early 16th-century; with carved and panelled front, early 17th-century. In porch-chamber—with curved lid, iron-bound, probably 16th-century; large, panelled, late 15th or early 16th-century. Coffin-lids: In S. porch—three, fragments, with foliated crosses, 13th-century. Communion Table: with carved and bulging baluster legs and carved rails, early 17th-century, much restored. Cupboards: In S. chapel—made up of early 17th-century panelling, with moulded styles and incised ornament. In N. aisle—in W. wall, two recesses with shafted jambs and moulded four-centred heads, 15th-century, one recess fitted with modern shelves. Doors: In nave—in doorways to E. turrets, two with cinquefoil-headed panels and band of quatrefoils, S. door with scutcheon and ring, early 16th-century. In N. doorway—of two leaves with pinnacled buttress on middle style, small wicket in W. leaf. In S. doorway—similar to that in N. doorway, but with ring-handle ornamented with dragons. In doorway to porch staircase—of moulded battens with scut-cheon and ring-handle, late 15th-century. Font: octagonal, with sunk cusped panels, late 15th-century, much repaired with cement. Glass: In S. aisle—in W. window, head probably of female saint, early 16th-century. Monuments and Floorslabs. Monuments: In N. chapel—on N. side, (1) to [John] Leche, vicar of the parish [1521], altar-tomb with plain sides and marble slab with moulded edge and brass marginal inscription. On N. wall—(2) to Fridiswed, wife of James Robinett, 1706, tablet, with inscription and shield of arms on brass plate.

In S. chapel—at E. end, (3) to Thomas, Lord Audley, K.G., Lord Chancellor, 1544, altar-tomb of touch, Renaissance work, with panelled sides and W. end divided into bays by enriched pilasters; in each bay a wreathed shield all defaced, except one at the W. end, of Audley, and one on the S. side with Audley impaling a coat of eight quarters, the first being barry; against wall at head a panel with enriched pilasters and an achievement of the Audley arms, on the frieze above it, the motto "Garde ta Foy."

In N. aisle — on N. wall, (4) one side of an altar-tomb, with three moulded circular panels each containing a shield— (a) a mill-rind cross and an ermine tail, for Woodhall; (b) (a) quartering quarterly a cross countercoloured; (c) as (a), 16th-century; (5) to William Woodhall, 1603, alabaster and slate tablet with shield of arms; (6) to William Byrde, 1568, and Mary (Woodhall) his wife, 1613, tablet with Corinthian columns and entablature, and three shields of arms, two now obliterated; on W. wall—(7) to Thomas West of London, mercer, 1696, marble cartouche with shield of arms.

In S. aisle—on W. wall, (8) to Thomas Baron, 1656, and Anne his wife, 1647, tablet with curved pediment and amorini; (9) to William Holgate, 1630, and Lettice his wife, 1629, tablet with side-columns, broken pediment and shield of arms. Floor-slabs: In N. chapel—(1) to James Robinett, mayor of the town, 1696–7, and Dorothy (Dyke) his wife, 1674, with shield of arms. In nave—(2) to John Holgate, 1673, with achievement of arms; (3) to Colonel Thomas Walsingham, 1691, with shield of arms; (4) to William Holgate, 1672, with achievement of arms; (5) to Jane, wife of Richard Drake, Rector of Radwinter, 1662, with shield of arms; (6) to James Monteth, 1681, and Anne (Holgate) his wife, 1685 (?), with shield of arms.

In N. aisle — (7) to Edward Turner, 1699, incised slab; (8) to William Patch, 1709; (9) slab, with figure of man inlaid in white marble, early or mid 17th-century, much worn. Niches: Internal—in N. aisle, in three bays of N. wall, four, with canopied heads carved with designs and figure-subjects, including: David playing on the harp; St. John and the Lamb; the Incredulity of St. Thomas; the Virgin and Child; the Scourging of Christ; the Agony in the Garden; all c. 1340, re-set; in second bay, four, each with two trefoiled canopied heads with shields of the Passion emblems, later 14th-century, re-set; in third bay, four, same date, much weathered; on piers between bays, three, with spire-form vaulted canopies, 15th-century; on piers between first, second and third windows, two with spire-form vaulted canopies and moulded brackets, 15th-century. External—S. chapel—in angle of third buttress from E., with cinquefoiled head and grotesque lion-corbel, 15th-century.

N. porch — on N. wall, with plain pointed head, early 16th century. Plate: includes silver-gilt cup of 1685, with quartered shield of Howard, cover with the Howard crest; silver-gilt standing paten of 1706, and a silver-gilt flagon of 1685, with the quartered arms of Howard. Reredos: Now in S. porch— in N. wall, fragment of an alabaster "table" with figure of civilian, probably part of a Crucifixion, late 14th-century. Royal Arms: Over tower arch—painted on board or canvas, arms of Charles II. Screens: Under W. arch of S. chapel— modern, incorporating cusped and foliated panels, late 14th-century. In porch-chamber—fragments of similar screen, both brought from elsewhere. Miscellanea: In S. porch, architectural fragments, 14th and 15th-century. Built into E. wall of S. porch—part of stone cross, possibly late 12th-century.